BikeFit

Create a program or maybe even an phone app that uses a camera to tell you how to adjust your bike so you fit more comfortably.

Fit methodology links:

• https://www.singletracks.com/mtb-training/how-to-fit-yourself-on-a-mountain-bike-like-a-pro/

  • Once you have your bar width, work on shifter and brake positioning. Try to set both so your wrist is not bent in an awkward angle and there is a small degree of freedom there – about 15 degrees. Anything more than that and you are at risk of hurting yourself.
  • Seat post height and setback
    • Hop on the bike and have someone support you while you position your feet on the pedals – ball of the foot on the axle and foot slightly pointing forward a couple degrees. You should not have your leg fully extended – there should be about 10-15 degrees of movement before your leg locks straight.
    • You can also use this formula as a decent starting point: Take your inseam measurement and multiply by .883. The result is the ballpark measurement from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle. From here you may need to go up or down a quarter of an inch until it looks and feels right.
    • With the basic seat height position set, it’s time to check positioning front to back. With the cranks set at 3 and 9 o’clock, get a piece of string and tie a weight to it. Sit on the bike in your riding position and pedal backwards a few strokes and stop at 3 and 9 o’clock again (you’ll need a spotter to help). Hang a plumb line or weighted string from your tibial tuberosity (bony protrusion just below your knee cap) and have a look at where the string intersects your crank – it should fall right in line with the pedal axle. If the string falls forward or behind, just slide the seat on the post to fix your positioning.
  • Pedal and cleat positions
    • Ideally you want the cleat set up so that if you draw a line from the center of the pedal axle up it will intersect with the widest part of your foot (where you apply the most force).
    • Use a mirror to take a look at the front of your feet and make sure they run parallel with your crank arms. This position will ease the load on your knee and ensures your feet will release from the pedals. One final note: many pedals feature adjustable tension and it’s often a good idea to start with the lightest tension where your feet barely wiggle (float). What you don’t want is a super solid feel to the pedal-shoe interface that hinders your foot’s natural tendency to twist on the back stroke.

• Numb hands: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbFrz5FsIow

• Mtn Bike Fit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxifl9JTeYA